June 17, 2010
Marlon Gobel spent years learning about the fashion industry under the tutelage of Thom Browne and Michael Bastian. Now the young designer is striking out on his own, and he chatted with Bradford Shellhammer about the process.
What were the hardest things about starting your own label?
I have not found starting my own label hard at all, because I know what I want to make, how I want to make it, and what I want it to mean. I spent a lot of time doing difficult stuff and working hard getting to this point, but that's what it took to make this feel so good now. I took my time learning what I needed to know before I felt I could have my own line. That's what has saved me from the hardships that can face new designers, such as production, getting stores to take a chance on you, and press.
How would you describe what you're doing?
I am designing great men's clothing that is made with all the details and quality of a Savile Row tailor, things you don't even know you are missing in the trousers and shirts you already own, but once you notice will never want to be without again. Also, my clothing will always have depth and meaning and will also be stylish. I feel there is no point in making another trouser or jacket if it does not feel special. We have too many ubiquitous things in the world, and I believe we need to make better, not more.
Where is the collection stocked?
My debut collection will be available at Bergdorf Goodman in New York. It is an incredible store, and I am very proud to be there!
You worked for two power players in fashion. What did you learn from Thom Browne?
I started with Thom Browne very close to the inception of his brand, so the opportunity to learn was tremendous. It was just three of us in the office, so everyone was involved in everything, which helped me learn something new every day. The most powerful things I learned at Thom Browne were the art of uncompromising clothing construction, the reinvention of true men's couture, and that art and fashion are linked in an unbreakable way. Finally, I found that changing a few details on something that people take for granted -- for example, a classic gray suit's proportions -- can change the idea of it forever.
And from Michael Bastian?
Michael Bastian proved to me that my ideas about fashion were important - I had never had another point of reference while at Thom Browne. For example, Michael never had a show during Fashion Week, and while I was working with him we decided to begin having a "show," and it made a huge positive difference. Also, it was confirmed to me that retail and saleability are most important (you can make beautiful things, but if they don't get to the consumer's hands, it is almost the same as having never made them).
Your look book, your website, and even your buttons have a recurring motif of the hexagon. What's that all about?
My first collection was influenced by the fact that it was the beginning of my brand. I thought about what its structure should be, what the brand's "DNA" would consist of, and I also looked at a lot of scientific shapes and symbols. The hexagon was perfect and masculine, but at the same time was familiar and new.
Your models look like hot scientists and you call your looks experiments. Do you consider yourself a scientist?
Well, for this first season, science was a side effect and undertone of the collection. The Heart sweater, the sweaters with the cable knit that I tweaked to reference DNA helixes, and even the color palette was a reference to the colors that best refract light. The definition of a scientist is "one who may be involved in original research, or make use of the results of the research of others." Looks like I may fit the definition of scientist this season, but in the end I am always a fashion designer.
What's the one piece of your collection no man can live without?
There are truly three things every man should have: a great pair of pants that fit well, a cashmere sweater (with a heart), and one formal look, because you never know what you will get invited to tomorrow.
